Olvera was originally to have been a stop on the Jerez-Malaga train line, but the line was never completed and the village went back to its business of producing olive oil. Eventually, new roads removed the need for a railway; now the railway has been given a new lease of life as one of the first Vías Verdes, or greenways (old re-conditioned railway lines), in Spain. We cycle for 36 km along this greenway (no cars), passing the Peñon de Zaframagón (Nature reserve with one of Europes’ largest colonies of vultures). We pass through many tunnels (up to 30) – some up to 1 km in length – where lights come on automatically as soon as we enter! We follow the Guadalete River as far as Puerto Serrano, where the greenway finishes and where we sleep in a bungalow next to the old railway station, now a restaurant.